what can cause a boat motor starter not to disengage

10-06-2014, xix:52

The engine has been working not bad for near 8 months but I decided to modify the fuel filters in preparation for a large trip. Unfortunately, during the bleeding process my starter started smoking slightly so I immediately stopped the process. Subsequently about ten minutes I tried the starter again fleck information technology wouldn't disengage even subsequently removing force per unit area from the start button. I shut off the battery to stop the starter. I figured it had to do with overheating, then I removed it, brought it to the shop where they refurbished it. They installed a stronger return bound, soldered some of the internals and smoothed out two flat spots to bring information technology back to circular. It and then tested perfectly on the test bench.

After reinstalling, same problem.

I removed all wiring except the power wire from the battery and the ground wire from the engine lug to the negative terminal on the get-go battery. Jumping the heavy solenoid terminals spins the starter without engaging as expected. Jumping the S terminal to the ability final on the solenoid cranks the engine over as expected but doesn't disengage after removing the jump (I was using a heavy wrench).

The shop suggested rough flywheel teeth so I again removed the starter and felt the flywheel teeth. The teeth had tiny burrs I could feel with the tip of my finger, way less than a millimeter. I used a file to grind all the teeth polish using a magnet to catch the small-scale corporeality of filings until all the teeth were shine to the touch (3 hours of back breaking work. I have blisters on the top of my become from kneeling then long, hehe). Afterwards reinstalling, all the same no change.

Someone suggested slightly loosening the three bolts holding the starter on to maybe assistance release the starter gear from the flywheel. I did so, activated the starter, information technology wouldn't undo, so I jiggled the starter, simply no go.

Every test, I adhered to the 15 sec on, 5 min off limitations to preclude overheating the starter. Learned my lesson on that beginning bleed! 30 seconds fried the starter.

What could prevent the starter from disengaging???
one) Solenoid? No. I remove power from the solenoid but it keeps cranking.
2) Friction at the flywheel? Seems all right. The starter folks painted the teeth black and said the wear looked normal when I brought it dorsum after testing on the boat.
3) Electrical issue? I can't run across how that could cause this problem.
iv) Starter alignment? Information technology works great with the current shim for over 2 years until at present.
five) Starter itself? Works perfectly on the test bench.

What's side by side? New engine?

x-06-2014, 20:47

The solenoid is make new and works perfectly on the test bench.

I completely bypassed the switch (removed all the wires fifty-fifty) and simply used a wrench to brand the connection between power and the small solenoid terminal.

Earlier this issue I would push button the offset push and the starter would appoint. Only I could also tap the starter and creepo the engine for less than a second. Now I tap the start push button and information technology cranks until I turn the battery off. But only when attached to the engine! When removed from the engine, the starter/solenoid act usually.

I say once more, it merely acts abnormally when attached to the engine. That has got to be an important clue...

10-06-2014, 21:nineteen

When you short to go power to the starter, then
turn off the battery to stop the starter, can yous
then unshort it and turn on the battery without it
trying to outset?

edit: My guess is bad solenoid.

ten-06-2014, 21:34

Yep.

I short the contacts and pull away within 1/2 2d.
The starter runs on its own.
I turn off the battery switch to terminate it.
I tin immediately plow information technology back on within 1 second and there's no starter activation.

10-06-2014, 22:45

"bushing for the shaft that could be worn out"...that always so
slightly changes the bending of the shaft when engaged.

Yeah, that'southward my new estimate.

11-06-2014, 02:41

Hullo,

This post has nothing to practise with y'all starter problem.

Make certain that you are not getting exhaust cooling water into the engine via the exhaust values. Your raw water intake through hull should exist closed and the water pump">raw water pump impeller should be removed when doing prolonged engine cranking.

You lot should check your engine oil to make sure that no water has gotten into it.

Best of luck,

Paul

11-06-2014, 03:03

I would say information technology'due south the solenoid if it is open up able there will be a washer that makes the contact bet it'due south deformed or damaged by arking. File and clean or just replace the unit. And yes make sure the water intake is off.

Sent from my GT-N7105T using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

11-06-2014, 05:11

In 7 higher up, are you lot still in test mode with but main power cablevision? If in test mode, the solenoid is getting juice from somewhere, indicating some kind of short in either the starter, the solenoid or both. If hooked up commonly, and then it sounds more like the ignition switch.

In 4 in a higher place, yous say that before the current issue you could 'tap the starter and could crank the engine for less than a second'. Exercise you mean that y'all could physically tap the starter (similar with a hammer or wrench) and the starter would plough? If then, and so that seems like there is some preexisting electrical result in either the starter/solenoid or boat wiring.

Hope you lot were being facetious about new engine....

xi-06-2014, 10:42

Checking the solenoid is easiest at this signal. I'll attempt that over again.

But it can't be an electrical issue. The gears on the flywheel and starter remain attached which keeps the Bendix from springing back which keeps the solenoid's contacts shoved closed (the pocket-sized starter gear and the solenoid's "jumper bar" are continued on a lever). And then the only fashion to free the gear is to remove the power from the battery. I'm assuming this unloads the starter's gear enough to allow it to spring back, disconnecting the internal jumper at the same time through the activation of the lever.

When I say I "tap the starter," I mean to say I could quickly push in and release the starter button which would start and and so stop the starter. In other words, it would non stay on. This was a week ago when everything was working properly.

In any case, it's not a starter switch problem. I have completely removed the starter switch and wiring from the solenoid'southward ability final and S terminal. I'm at present jumping the solenoid's power terminal to the S terminal with a metal object to act every bit the switch.

New engine sounds good. Or maybe but a new gunkhole. Or just sell the boat and utilise friends' boats? Haha, yep: joking. At last I'one thousand learning a ton well-nigh the Perkins 4-108 engine.

xi-06-2014, 10:54

Upon further reflection, it can't be a bad solenoid. It tests normally on the test bench. And when removing ability from the Southward last, the electromagnet is deactivated. Information technology must exist hanging on the flywheel while nether load.

I similar the bad alignment diagnosis. Now how to straighten her out??

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what can cause a boat motor starter not to disengage

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